Is this the neatest B&B in Napa Valley? Show me a better one. It's called Trubody Ranch, it's right smack dab in the middle of a lovely vineyard and, if you like, you can even live in the water tower. Structures like these used to be common in the Valley, but only a few remain. Phylis and I have stayed here and we couldn't get over the view from our bedroom windows.     The people who run the place couldn't be nicer and breakfast is a real treat -- love those homemade scones.      Update 2001: The owners have been so successful in the vineyard that they're no longer running the B&B. Thanks for the memories!