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HOW TO USE THESE NOTES: Many of my tasting notes take the style of mini-articles and discuss multiple wines. So, rather than bust them up, I've organized them in the order they were written, with the most recent at the top. I realize this is a royal pain for folks simply seeking a recommendation for a good Chardonnay. If that's what you're after, please make use of our SEARCH engine. Just click the button below, wait for the search window to pop up, type in the word "Chardonnay" (for example) -- and follow the instructions on the results screen. If you're using Internet Explorer, you can also search any individual screen -- like this one -- by hitting "Ctrl-F", typing in your search word and pressing "Enter." PINOT NOIR NEWBIES. (February 24, 2002) Now that New World winemakers have the knack for Pinot Noir, the scene’s exploding. We tried two more this week, both well made and graceful: has to be among the top two or three Pinots I’ve tasted from California’s Anderson Valley. I hear the winemaker used to assist Ehren Jordan and he’s certainly talented. Medium ruby, this wine doesn’t try to clobber you, but proves very seductive with aromas of cherry, strawberry and rose petals. Nice silky texture. The floral notes intensify on the finish. No idea how it will keep, but you can’t go wrong decanting and drinking now. *2000 Murdoch James Estate Pinot Noir Reserve Martinborough provides more evidence that New Zealanders can make world class Pinot. Deep ruby, it’s a little overwhelmed at first by sandalwood aromas, but these fade back soon, revealing deep cherry flavors, plus a trace of Santa Barbara-style celery leaf that prevents me from scoring it higher. I’d drink this puppy soon. ÔNES. (February 24, 2002) Last week's Rhône youngsters tasted so good, we reached back and tried a couple of the more mature folks: What a great moment to catch this classic! Decanted well before drinking, it’s still deep ruby, lightening slightly at the rim. Starts out all tar and spice, then builds like a fugue -- as flavors of lead pencil, currants and white pepper join in, one by one. Yum. **+1985 Vieux Telegraphe (Chateauneuf-du-Pape) looks a little older, going garnet at the rim, but the wine's still in prime time, not fazed a bit by the bruiser sitting beside it. Here we’ve got more cedar than lead pencil, more strawberry and mint than cassis. RHÔNES RULE, BUT CLONES DON'T DROOL. (February 16, 2002) You've got to be stubborn or dead to resist Rhônes in today's market. Recent vintages have been right-on, most are actually priced appropriately and even Rhône clones from California tend to be a slightly better deal than Cabs or Chards of similar quality. Elsewhere on this site I've praised the low-end deals, but tonight we decided to try the other end: WHITE FLIGHT:
RED FLIGHT #1 (CÔTE ROTIE & CALIFORNIA)
RED FLIGHT #2 (HERMITAGE & CALIFORNIA)
MAINLY SPAIN. (February 5, 2002) Tempranillo can taste great young, but tonight we also found out what tempting tricks the older stuff can do. Alongside a mighty fine meal of elk in Cabernet sauce, we tasted: . Served from a half-bottle, this stuff even amazes the guy who brought it. Thickly textured and laced with strawberry flavors, it finishes very well. Shows no sign of fading with air. Tasted blind, it might be mistaken for Burgundy. WINE OF THE EVENING. **+1990 Pesquera Tinto (Ribera del Duero). I devoured my own stash long ago and now I'm wishing I'd treated it more like my 1990 Bordeaux. The darkest wine on the table, it's softer now, but still brimming with the same delicious chocolate and cassis flavors. Marries marvelously with the elk. Drink or hold -- it's not even close to cracking up. **?1996 Torre Muga (Rioja) and **?1994 Torre Muga (Rioja). Both these pups want more time to grow up. Right now, you can taste some berry flavors, but there's far more spice, smoke, sausage and cocoa. Furry tannins on the finish confirm the verdict. The '94 is a little more accessible, but they both could use 5 more years of cellaring. **1994 Havens Bourriquot is the ringer. Served blind -- but just from the texture, everyone knows it's made in a friendlier style. With strawberries, blackberries and a dash of herb, it's fun stuff that one taster rightly guesses to be partly Cabernet Franc. A Bordeaux-type blend from California, this is Mike Havens at his well-balanced best. (February 5, 2002) Famed for its super-but-sanely-priced sweet wines, Yalumba is trying to do the same thing for Australian Cab. The good news is that the price is okay and the wine tastes pretty good -- but then what? Although 1998 Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa offers up nice cherry-vanilla flavors in an oaky (but not splintery) style that many people will like, it sure could use more oomph on the finish. Nice try but no cigar for $15.99. I'll stick to their stickies. SYRAH SURGES. (January 20, 2002) California Syrah has yet to pass Cab in the race for my affections, but it sure is coming on strong. Time was I could count the labels I like on the fingers of one hand, but now I'm even running out of toes. Tonight we tasted two old favorites... Swanson's been one of my favorite Syrahs from the first time I tasted the '92 and tonight it's still remarkably youthful. Even needs a little time to air before the tannins fade back and the berries come out to play. To be sure, it's not quite the monster it was 5 years back, but I'll probably wait a couple of years before opening my final bottle. *-1995 Bedford Thompson Syrah has not held up as well. I really fell for this wine's broad, friendly fruit back in 1997, but now the primary flavors are giving way to some minty nuances. Drink up. It hasn't quite quit, but it's sure not getting better. And the winner turned out to be a very convincing newcomer...
WHEN WINE GURUS CATCH COLD (January 12, 2002)...can you trust their tasting notes? Ever seen one admit in print that his nose was out of commission? Well, I just did. Now, however, the rhinovirus from hell seems finally to be on the run -- and boy did the following wines taste terrific to my reawakened palate:
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