BUBBLY CENTRAL. (February, 1998) Built right into a hill in Carneros, south of Napa Valley, is Codorniu Napa. They do make a very decent sparkling wine here, but the main attraction for me is the architecture. Here's Phylis walking into the secretive entrance in the hillside. The inside of this tasting emporium is just as sexy. UPDATE 2005: Now renamed Artesa, and mostly devoted to still wine.